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Many years ago I returned from an Indian vacation carrying a
box of Indian confectionery for my friends at the Midwestern company where I
worked. Things like barfi,
kalakand and such, solidified milk based creations with sugar and other
additives. This was the early
nineties, Indian food was not common in Minnesota, and it was likely their
first exposure to Indian sweetmeats. One of them looked with some doubt at the thin silver foil
that covered one of these confections (it is meant to be eaten along with the piece). Eventually his curiosity got the better
of him and he popped it in. But
his hesitation got me thinking.
Silver foil, called varak, vark or chandi ka waraq, has been used in all types of Indian
sweets made with milk, dates, and nuts for at least a few hundred years and
India uses up about 13 British tonnes of silver foil every year for this
purpose. Most likely this is
because the antibacterial properties of silver has traditionally helped
increase the shelf life of the confections.
This is not only an Indian thing. More than a hundred years ago, milk would be preserved in
the West by throwing in a silver coin.
Before penicillin came along, silver was part of wound dressings used in
WWI. The fact that silver, along with
other metals such as copper and zinc can destroy living cells was figured out
around 1893.
Why silver acts this way is not known for sure. There are a few theories. One is that the silver strips away and
reacts with elements like sulfur present in bacterial cell membranes. This affects the ability of the
bacteria to respire, or to absorb energy so that it eventually dies.
Muslim artisans from Hyderabad specialize in hammering waraq
out in micrometer thick foil between pieces of leather. While waraq is supposed to be 99.9% silver, today
there is likely far more danger from the spurious alloying of the silver—there
are reports of this happening frequently.
The good news is that alloying silver reduces its ability to be “worked”
into very thin sheets so there is a limit to the extent of contamination
possible.
Visiting a regular, middle class Indian confectionary in a
large Indian city can cause some anxiety to the tourist. There are usually flies hovering around
inside the glass cases where the food is stored. Indian sweets however are unlikely to give stomach
infections. Quite aside from the
silver foil, which not all confections have, the high sugar content can
dehydrate and kill bacteria, curbing their growth. Syrupy confections such as rossogollas are particularly
effective in this regard.
Silver is more commonly used - but for special occasions you can order mithai lined with gold foil. My Mom did that for my wedding sweets that were distributed in Delhi in 1979. Sujata Kar
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